The bittersweet charms of tiramisu
提拉米蘇亦苦亦甜的魅力
“Tiramisu,”murmurs Rob Reiner's character knowingly to Tom Hanks in“Sleepless in Seattle'. “What is tiramisu?" asks Hanks, a widower venturing back into the world of dating.“Some woman is gonna want me to do it to her and I'm not gonna know what it is!”“You'll love it,”Reiner assures him. When the film was released in 1993 tiramisu was an obscure confection unheard of even in an America rich with Italians.
在電影《西雅圖夜未眠》中，羅伯.萊納扮演的角色頗有深意地對(duì)湯姆.漢克斯低聲說道:“提拉米蘇”?！疤崂滋K是什么?”漢克斯問道(他在片中飾演一位重拾勇氣闖蕩愛情世界的鰥夫)，“ 要是有女人想讓我給她來這個(gè)，結(jié)果我根本不知道那是什么!”?！澳銜?huì)愛 上它的”萊納跟他打保票。這部電影在1993年上映時(shí)，提拉米蘇還是個(gè)名不見經(jīng)傳的冷門J甜品，即便是在意大利人不少的美國，也沒怎么有人聽說過。
Today it appears on Italian menus everywhere, from the trattorias and ristoranti of Venice to red-sauce joints of Boston's North End. But the supposed Italian classic probably dates back only as far as the 1960s. The name means“ pick me up”in Italian: Ada Campeol, an exhausted young mother and owner of Le Beccherie restaurant in Veneto in northern Italy, is said to have come up with the dessert. Others credit Carminantonio lannaccone,an Italian chef who ran a bakery in Baltimore's Little Italy and brought the recipe with him to America.
如今，不論是威尼斯大大小小的本土餐館，還是波士頓北角的美式意大利餐廳，世界各地的意大利菜單上都必然有著提拉米蘇的身影。但是這道所謂的意大利經(jīng)典菜品，只能追溯到19世紀(jì)60年代。在意大利語當(dāng)中，(提拉米蘇) 這個(gè)名字的意思是“喚醒我”:據(jù)說，是埃達(dá).坎普爾首創(chuàng)了這道甜品，當(dāng)時(shí)她是位疲憊不堪的年輕母親，同時(shí)還身兼貝切里餐廳的店主，這家店開在意大利北部的威尼托。另外還有說法表示，這道甜品出自卡邁安東尼奧.伊安納康之手，他是巴爾的摩小意大利區(qū)一家面包店的意大利主廚，是他把提拉米蘇的食譜帶到了美國。
Whatever its origins, shattered parents everywhere can attest to the reviving qualities of lavish quantities of caffeine and sugar. Start with savoiardi biscuits, Italy's version of ladyfingers,light, crumbly and eager to absorb other flavours.Sodden (but not to the point of mushiness) with espresso and brandy, marsala or rum to form the dark heart of the dish. Layers of zabaglione mascarpone whipped up with eggs and sugar to a light custard一provide contrast. A thick dusting of cocoa finishes it off, like moleskin on the tongue.The perfect way to seduce anyone.
但不論提拉米蘇源起何處，想必世界各地心力交瘁的父母?jìng)儯紝?duì)它有著同樣的切身體會(huì):caffeine和糖分的“慷慨”登場(chǎng)，有著提神醒腦的功效。制作提拉米蘇的第-步是準(zhǔn)備薩佛拉蒂餅干，這種意大利手指餅干松松脆脆，能立馬吸收各種汁水。用濃縮咖啡和白蘭地、馬薩拉酒或朗姆酒，將它浸軟(但不至于呈漿糊狀)，即可得到這道甜點(diǎn)深色的“靈魂”。接著，將馬斯卡彭芝士與雞蛋以及砂糖打發(fā)至松軟的糊狀，制成沙巴翁，層層鋪在餅干上下，與之相映襯。最后，再厚厚地撒.上一層可可粉即可完工，形成綿密的口感，不愧為讓人神魂顛倒的不二之選。
